This year, we started our summer holidays with a few days in Portugal’s second largest city – Porto. Having enjoyed Lisbon and the southern region of Algarve during our last visit, we wanted to explore the northern city that has so many links with my own country.
Now, it may have been August and the height of the summer season, but that didn’t stop the rain from falling for the full three days of our visit. Despite this, we were determined to see the sights of Porto, so we put on our trainers and grabbed our umbrella to brave the elements.
If there’s just one thing that Portugal is known for, it’s the pretty azulejos tiles that adorn buildings, and in Porto they are everywhere. Some of the most impressive ones can be found inside the São Bento railway station and on the facades of churches such as Santo Ildefonso or Igreja do Carmo. And speaking of beautiful churches, one that is off the beaten tourist track is the Igreja de Santa Clara. It’s not so much the outside, but the interior which is completely covered in gold that makes this place so stunning; an ideal spot to shelter away from the rain and talk at length in Portuguese with the guardian about the church’s history.
Another spot where we took respite from the rain showers was at Majestic Café, a belle époque era cafe in the busy shopping street where J.K. Rowling is said to have spent time while working on the first Harry Potter book. We made sure to come here for morning coffee (and hot chocolate for me!) to avoid the crowds that often congregate here for afternoon tea. We avoided the Livraria Lello, another spot on the Harry Potter pilgrimage – it was just not worth the massive queues – but we did manage to spot some students in billowing black robes around the grounds of Porto University, and that was enough wizarding fun for us.
As is the case with Lisbon, the rolling hills of Porto will give your legs a mighty workout, which is all worth it for the many beautiful viewpoints. Some of the best views we had included from the square surrounding the Sé do Porto, from the top floor of the Portuguese Centre of Photography (which is free to enter and got us out of the rain – winning!) and from the top of the Ponte Luís I, which can be crossed to see the scenic Ribeiria from the opposite banks of Gaia.
Something that Porto is famous for is of course Port wine. And it’s in Gaia that you’ll find the production sites and cellars of the different Port houses. After researching the various tours available, I decided to book us in for a tour of the Cockburn’s Port Wine Lodge, which seemed to be the best value for price and overall experience. This was one of our favourite things we did in Porto and would highly recommend it – the tour was detailed about the process, the guide was fantastic in answering our questions and I discovered a liking for Port during the tasting at the end (a Port Tonic would soon become our evening drink during the remainder of the holiday).
Besides Port, the city is also well-known for its food, including some regional specialities. Here’s some of our top restaurants and spots to grab a bite in Porto:
- Casa Guedes: Not the fanciest place in the world, but the most delicious Bifana in Porto!
- Pátio do Duque: A tapas spot that we went to on our first night – order as many different plates as you can eat as everything was delicious and great value for money
- Bulha Bolhão: Classic Portuguese dishes – especially recommend their Bacalhau à Brás and Grilled Octopus mains
- Aquele Tasco: Another tapas spot (although tapas are slightly larger here so careful how many you order). A good place to try a mini version of the Porto speciality Francesinha or their Alheira sausage
And if you’re looking for a place to enjoy an after dinner drink, try Rua de Cândido dos Reis – a street lined with bars and outside terraces, known for its nightlife.
Despite the wet start to our summer holiday, Porto did not fail to delight. From traditional architecture and cobbled streets to tasting Port wine in the cellars and sampling regional specialities, the city is not short of authentic Portuguese charm. And, just like J.K. Rowling before me, the place has me well and truly under its spell.
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